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Nakajima Ki-44 – II Hei Shoki (Tojo)

Captain Teiici Hatano Narimasu - 47th Flight Regiment, 1944    

 

1:32 scale release from Hasegawa of a Nakajima Ki-44-II Hei Shoki, kit number 08880.  I will be modeling the scheme of Captain Teiici Hatano Narimasu who was deployed at the 47th Flight Regiment in 1944.  The markings for this particular scheme can be found on the included kit decal set.

 

 

 Comments about the planned build:

I will keep this build fairly simple and as much out of the box except for the addition of the SAC metal landing gear and the Brass Gun Barrels from Master-Model.  I will be using the Eduard Mask set to rapidly and easily mask out the many glass panels of the cockpit.  

 

 The airframe will be readied for painting by utilizing Squadron’s Plastic prep first.  A coat of either Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey rubbed down with MDC polishing sponges and a cloth or Mr. Surfacer 1000 spray will be utilized as a primer base coat. Potentially a gloss Black coat for the Aluminum could be in order as well.

 

 The camouflage scheme consists of an overall Aluminum (utilizing various color shades from Alclad II), White Home Defense bands on top and bottom wing surfaces, Yellow Recognition leading edges, a Blue “Captain” designation band around the fuselage and a Blue vertical fin tip plus a large Yellow flash.

 

The cockpit interior will be Nakajima Green (simulated with Mr. Color 127). Mr Color #125, will be used for the anti glare panel (this color is a very dark “almost Black” but does have slight tinge of metallic Blue in it and as such will provide a nice depth and simulating the black paint over an aluminum airframe.  Interior wheel wells and gear are to be painted a metallic Blue Green (simulated with Mr. Color #57).  The spinner and prop will be Mr. Color #131 (a fairly dark brown).  The fabric aileron surfaces will be painted with Tamiya XF-25 Light Sea Grey with a touch of Tamiya XF-71 Cockpit Green.  Potentially I might paint the White bands and the Yellow leading edges as opposed to using the included decals.

 

 

Bits of worn surfaces to be picked out with various artist pencils and little dabs of Testors Model Master metallic paint on the prop leading edges and Yellow main wing leading edge, fuel stains on wings and radiator fluid leakage will be simulated with weathering powders from bragdonent.net.  Some exhaust staining coming out of the cowling will be in order as well.

 

A clear gloss coat of Testors Model Masters will be applied in preparation for the decals and snuggled down with solve- a-set decal solution if need be.  Once the decals have been applied another Gloss clear coat will be applied to seal the decals in completely.  All control surfaces will be treated to a flat coat.

 

Paint Used:

  • Tamiya Acrylic, Mr. Color and various shades of Alclad II

References & aftermarket products used:

Tools used:

  • H&S Evolution 2 in 1 Airbrush
  • Dental Tools for scribing panel lines , P Cutter & Scalemodelsport.com Scriber
  • JLC Razor Saw
  • RB Productions Riviting Tool
  • Xuron Sprue Cutter
  • Small curved scissors
  • X-Acto Scalpel blade(s)
  • Pin Vise  & Pin drill bitts
  • Cocktail sticks
  • Cotton Buds (lots)
  • Scribing Templates
  • Tamiya Masking Tape various sizes
  • Various sanding sponges from MDC & ProModeller.com
  • Bow Sander by Flexifile
  • 3-M White Tack for masking off wheel bays and cockpit.

Glues & Putties used:

  • Zap Super Glue medium thick and Kicker
  • Tamiya Extra Thin and Thick Cement
  • Gator Glue by Gator Grip
  • Mr. Surfacer 500 and 1000
  • Polly Scale – Plastic Prep

Paints Used:

  • Tamiya XA-20 Thinners
  • Mr. Color Self Leveling Thinners
  • Mr. Color Retarder
  • Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black
  • Tamiya XF-2 Flat White
  • Tamiya XF-3 Flat Yellow
  • Tamiya XF-7 Flat Red
  • Tamiya XF-10 Flat Brown
  • Tamiya XF-19 Flat Sky Grey
  • Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black
  • Tamiya XF-71 Cockpit Green
  • Tamiya XF-25 Light Sea Grey
  • Tamiya X-25 Clear Green
  • Tamiya X-27 Clear Red
  • Alcad II Aircraft Aluminum, Aircraft Steel, Dark Aluminum
  • Alclad Hot Metal Blue
  • Model Master Gloss Lacquer – Decal prep coat & final coat
  • Model Master Semi Gloss– Fabric surfaces
  • Mr. Color #57, 125, 127, and 131
  • Micro Sol & Set decal solutions
  • Future - for cockpit glass and instrument gauges

Final detailing:

  • Promodellers Dark Dirt Weathering Wash
  • Bragdonent weathering powders
  • Tamiya weathering powders master set C&D
  • Gallery “artists” soft Pastels

Clear Sprue Parts and Vinyl caps:




Kit Sprues:













Decal Sheet:



 

SAC Metal Landing Gear - 32032  



Master-Model - Brass Gun Barrels



 


Eduard Canopy Mask:

 



Gear polished up:



Removed the Clear canopy parts from their associated sprues, these are quite thin and fragile and care should be taken on this.



Dipped into the Future 2 nights ago as I need the 24 hr time window to harden.



Eduard masks in place.



Kit starts off with building the cockpit.



Located all the necessary parts and clipped from sprues, then proceeded to clean off all parts from minor seams, and sprue gate left overs.



All wing parts located and removed, cleaned from sprues and dry fitted, ready for assembly.



Work on the wing commences.



Kit wing gun barrel vs the Brass upgrade



Used some plastic card stock to align the guns properly.



Wing tops glued on and ready for some gentle sanding.



Guns aligned and tucked in.



Wing sub assembly complete and tail surfaces glued together, Butterfly Flaps cleaned up and polished.

Ready for final painting and install.


Installed the cowl flaps and choose the "open" position.




Installed the large cooler top intake and the bottom oil cooler intake.









Used a small drill bit of appropriate size and drilled all the lightning holes in the seat.





All of the interior was pre-treated with a light coat of Alclad Dark Aluminum.

Overcoat it with the interior Green then lightly chip away at it, revealing some of the aluminum undercoat.



A light misting of the interior Green was applied using Mr. Color leveling thinner and 4 drops of Mr. Retarder.



Sprayed at 70/30 Thinner to Paint ratio and at 10 PSI max.



Drilled out the main fuselage gun barrels with a suitably sized drill bit.



Painted up with some Model Master Metalizer Gun Metal.



Guns installed, Seat installed.



Airbrushed on a light coating of Model Master Black Chrome. 



Building of the propeller.



I did not like the thickness of the blades, so I sanded them down to a more scale like blade. 


 
Used some sanding sticks and then used the MDC sponges to polish them up nicely.



Airbrushed with Mr. Color #131 (Propeller Color) a Chocolate Brown. 

Then over-sprayed with a thin coat of Model Master Semi Gloss to protect the coat and prep it for some aluminum
chipping at a later stage.



Build up the wheel halves, polished them up with MDC sponges, no thread on these wheels !

The rubber is Tamiya NATO Black (XF-71) and over-sprayed with Model Master Semi Gloss. 

The hubs are inserts, a nice touch so no making needed.  Airbrushed Alclad Steel for the hubs, then inserted
glued with some Tamiya thin. 

Installed temporarily onto the SAC Gear all polished to see how it looks.



Airbrushed the Butterfly flaps with Alclad Airframe aluminum to see how much polishing I might need to do.

Looks like we have some faint scratches, so will polish it down and another coat.



The interior main wheel wells were shot with Alclad airframe aluminum in order to provide a nice shiny base for the Metalic Blue Green.



Airbrushed on Mr. Color #57 Metallic Blue Green.



Glued in all the small levers and actuators. 

Next step is to apply a light pin wash and some pastel chalks to show wear and tear and chip off some of the Green paint.




Mr. Surfacer 1000 White out of the can, check to see how the cowl is looking. 





Nice and smooth.



Airbrushed some Alclad Dark Aluminum on the inside of the cowling to prep for the interior Green.



Interior Green.



Building the engine.



All the parts from the sprues. 



There are some pretty large sprue gates, on top of the cylinder heads, I decided to clean those off,

Not sure if these "bridge" piece is there on the real engine, but just did not look right. 

The blade is pointing at one I cleaned off, the others are still there for comparison.



Drilled out the holes for the ignition wires to lead to.



First coat of Alclad Dark Aluminum as a base to start from, then over-sprayed with some Model Master Gloss to protect
the metal finish for all the weathering steps to come



Oil wash with 50 to 50 Ivory Black and Burnt Sienna and 70 % orderless thinners.



Used some appropriate sized copper wire and cut two sizes of wire to be installed.



The wires were inserted into the pre-drilled holes, once they were dipped into a small blob of thick super glue. 

Once aligned, I sprayed some kicker to set them in place.



Another coat of Tamiya Oil and Soot was applied then wiped with a cotton bud soaked in IPA after letting it dry off for 5 minutes.

The Tamiya Oil and Soot is sprayed at 10 to 12 psi, at a 70/30 Thinner to Paint ratio.

The another coat of Model Master Gloss was applied to highlight the metal areas again.

The push roads were painted with Tamiya NATO Black.



Rusted out the exhaust collector ring with some weathering powders.



Cockpit is getting close now, chipped away at the Green paint, and applied a
dirty grimy Black wash made out of with 70 to 30 Ivory Black and Burnt Sienna and 70 % orderless thinners.

Installed all the instruments and picked out some details.





Checking alignment of all the major parts.



Installed some seat belts from a left over PE set I had, just to dress up the front office a bit.

Not quite scale accuracy (as these are German).







Cockpit installed and glued onto the right side with some super glue and checked for alignment. 

Another Model Master Flat coat was sprayed on to dull out the cockpit some before closing it all up.



Gluing of the fuselage, gun cover, wings and horizontal tail.



While holding the two fuse halves together with some tape, aligned the panel lines as much as possible at high visible areas.

Then from underneath, through the wing hole, used super glue and glued the left half of the cockpit.

Once dried, followed the whole fuse seam with Tamiya Thin and held it together, whilst hardening.

There is no stress so no rubber banding necessary, the fit out of the box is fantastic.

Fuse was left for the glue to harden for 20 minutes, then carefully aligned the wings to the fuse.

No sanding was required for a perfect fuse-to-wing-fillet fit.  Followed the

seam with some Tamiya thin cement and held it together.

Just the Fuse to wing join at the bottom rear needed a little sanding and filling.





Checking seams and sanding very lightly all the leading edges with MDC sponges, progressively going to finer and finer grits.

Polished up the bottom and top spine join, glued on the horizontal stab and carefully aligned, then adjusted for "horizontal" plane while the glue set.



Painted up the Anti Glare panel for the cockpit with some Tamiya a NATO Black XF-69 and installed the gun-sight.

The glass of the gun-sight was treated with a drop of Future to give it a little extra.



Installed the Armored Glass with a light touch of Gator Glue, removed the oozed out glue with a cotton bud soaked in IPA.

Masked the fuse off and painted the Interior Green, over the outside of the frame for the first layer. 

Painted the engine bay the Interior Green.



Drilled out the head rest frame, for a little extra touch of detail.



Painted over the Interior Green with a light spray of Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black in preparation for the Aluminum to come.



Spent quite a bit of time masking in the wheel wells with White Tack.



Installed a "little" lens for the landing light, to dress it up.

Masked off the glass for the landing light and build up a new Pitot Tube out of some brass hollow tubing from Lion Roar.



Checked all seams on more time and some small re-scribing was necessary.



Polished up the plastic with various grits to 12000 to get as smooth of a finish as possible.

Applied Plastic Prep liberally and wiped off with a lint free cloth to ensure there were no greasy finger prints anywhere in sight, plus getting rid of any static.

Masked off the Green engine bay with some more White Tack. 



A quick single pass was made with 12000 Mr. Surfacer spray and let it dry for 1 hour.



Once dry (placed under a light to speed up the process - and CAREFULLY

monitored - as not to get too hot and somehow de-form the plastic),

This coat was rubbed down with a 12000 grit wet sanding sponge from MDC, in circular motions.



First layer of Alclad Airframe Aluminum applied.  Let dry for 30 minutes and

polished with a piece of an old T-Shirt, in circular motions and very light pressure.

The Alclad is sprayed in circular motion passes, neat at 5 to 8 psi, light dusty coats, slowly building up the volume.



Masked off the fabric control surfaces and airbrushed on a light layer of Tamiya Light Sea Grey + a smidge of Cockpit Green,

once dried, airbrushed on a light layer of Model Master Flat Clear to protect the finish.

Unmasked everything ever so carefully, rolling the tape over it self as not to stress the underlying metal work.



Close up of the tail surfaces.



 

Although hard to discern in the pictures, I was not too happy with the overall finish of the Aluminum,

Masked off the control surfaces this time and air-bushed on 2 more coats of Alclad Airframe Aluminum, with and in-between some light polishing up.

paint the homeland defense White Bands first.

I purposefully did not place a think coat on, to make it look like the paint has been fading in the harsh Pacific Sun light.



A little hard to discern but the White is quite patchy and very Flat.

The Mr. Color White is sprayed at 70/30 thinner to paint at 8 psi, light dusty coats, slowly building up the volume
and being careful not to flood against the tape line.

Here is some worn Paint......The Blue Captain band has been painted and dis-stressed as well as the White bands.

The Tamiya paint is a home brew of Tamiya Flat Blue (XF-8) and Tamiya Flat White (XF-2) at 45/55 Blue to White

to make it look extremely sun bleached.

This concoction was sprayed at 60/40 thinner to paint at 10 psi, light dusty coats, slowly building up the volume.

Gave the paint about 10 minutes to dry and then started attacking the paint layer with a wad of sticky painters tape to distress it. 



I managed to get this effect by purposefully pulling up paint with a very sticky Painters Tape. 

Timing is quite of the essence with this technique and not a whole lot of room for error.

This is against all the rules of good masking, and not for the faint of heart. 



The metal is coming through the paint colors nicely.



The Black anti glare panel (Mr Color #125) has been painted up, lightly over-sprayed with small speckles of metalizer to make it

look like its been sand blasted by pebbles from un-improved dirt runways.



Engine glued on.



Hinamaru's painted on with Tamiya flat Red.

The Red was purposefully painted a very faint--see through--appearance, and blotchy "at best",

in hopes of portraying the fading of the intense sun.



Start of the dis-stressing the paint on the Hinamaru's





Here are the massive exhaust tubes, needed a little filler and then painted up Tamiya Hull Red (XF-9)



Re-painted the Butterfly Flaps with Alclad Dur-aluminum as I ended up stripping off the first attempt.

There where some faint scratches on the surface and just could not leave it be.

Polished them up, painted Tamiya Gloss Black (X-1), then the Dur-aluminum over the top.

Once dried, painted up the interior with Tamiya Flat Red (XF-7), then an overcoat with Model Master Gloss Clear.





Installed a brake line made from fine brass wire, held in place by small strips of Tamiya tape, to be painted aluminum. 





Painted up the Black anti Dazzle on the cowl, to my surprise discovered I had miss-aligned the Black on the fuse
by a few millimeters (To high up).

Re-masked the fuselage area and aligned with new tape and re-shot the Black for the Fuse.

We are all aligned --Fuse--to--Cowl-- and looking pretty smart.



Two coats of Model Master Gloss Clear have been applied over the entire model.

The next stage is to paint a Super Flat Clear over the "faded" paint areas.



Left to complete:



Painted the Yellow danger markers on the Propeller.

De-stress the propeller leading edge with some metalizer on a sponge.
Shoot a semi-gloss onto the propeller blades.
 
 
Applied Model Master Burnt Iron as a base, then,
Installed exhaust tubes and brushed on some weathering powders to get that dusty Rusty look.
 
 
Unmasked & pulled out the White tack from main wheel wells.
Painted up the interior of the flaps the metal Blue.
Installed the Flaps.
 
 
Installed main landing gear, plus all doors and actuators.

Installed Cowl.
Installed Propeller.

 
Decal-ed up the Yellow Tail Flash and over coat with Gloss Clear to seal in.



Decal-ed the serial #60 onto tail and main gear doors, overcoat with Clear Gloss.
Unmasked the armored front glass for cockpit.
Unmasked the left wing leading edge landing light.
Installed antenna tube in front of cockpit and install antenna wire to the tail.
Installed the rear Canopy.

Completed pictures: